put the sugar in first and then pour the water around the edges of the pan; she'd then make an X in the sugar with her finger so that all of the sugar is wet.

I just let it cook (med-high heat) till I see a little caramelization (like in the article) around the edge, then swirl the pan.

To test the color more easily you can dip a spoon in and drizzle some caramel onto a white plate. It's awfully difficult to tell the color while in the pan.

I thought the bit about waiting for it to smoke was great. I agree that a deep color is what you should look for---but it gets a little scarry.

Oh, always have a whisk handy well you pour any liquid into got caramel; it will help with boil-overs.